My First Day in the Old City

While I was in Jerusalem.... 

About two months ago, I went to really explore the Old City.  I had gone to the Western Wall with a good friend, but hadn't had a chance to yet immerse myself in the City.   I got off at the Central Bus Station, but I must have gotten off-track because I missed the big, tourist-friendly Jaffa Gate and ended up at the Damascus Gate outside of the Arab Quarter.  



The Damascus Gate

 Knowing this wasn't the best area for lonesome single girls with blondish hair, I kept my head down and tried not to look worried.   But the sky was so beautiful, I couldn't turn back now.    I had to see more and more of it.   It was like looking at clear blue water, but up in the sky.  It was like nothing I had ever seen before.    I couldn't get a picture of it--not one that could portray how saturated and brave a sky it was.
   

The Tower of David


Passing stone after white stone hewn together, I walked around the perimeter of the Old City hoping to find a better gate to enter through.   

The Lion's Gate

On my way around, I passed a Herod’s Gate and then a Lion’s Gate.  I wanted to finish my circuit around all the Gates, but just couldn’t pass up entering through such a sweet-sounding name.   I imagined 14th century horsemen galloping through with black Arabian stallions.    I had the luck of walking in with two Arab women and their children. 



Noble Arches

 

I had just passed through the Lion’s Gate when the most peaceful of secret gardens caught my eye.    The crowded alleyways were loud with people selling their wares.    I ducked in for a breath.   It opened up into a beautiful flowering oasis.    There, a palm tree and wading pool-sized potted plants of ivy and pansies burst forth in the middle of nowhere.  It was a paradise I wish my mother could see.  

 

A Garden Pavilion

Ten steps outside of that garden was another botanical garden.    I looked in and an Arab boy beckoned me to come closer.    (Now, if that doesn't sound like a bad idea...)   But I did, and he was such a nice boy.  So hospitable.   It was a Franciscan church.  It was called the Church of the Flagellation.   I kept thinking to myself, Those Franciscans are so hard on themselves!    You see, this Church was also located next to The Church of the Condemned.   Another testament to Franciscan asceticism? 


However, I found out I had happened on The Stations of the Cross.   What crazy luck--or Providence?   This was where Jesus was sentenced to die by Pilate.   My demeanor immediately quieted.    Imagines from ‘The Passion’ rose to my mind.   A few steps to my left was where Jesus would have been beaten before He was crucified.   Oh, what a sacrifice.   


I felt so grateful to the Holy Spirit.   He was showing me all these places that my Lord had touched and changed forever.     He was like a heavenly tour guide; bumbling as I was, subtly leading me this way, directing my feet that way, making me want to look over there.   I didn’t realize how precious was my path until I looked up and saw this sign.  

So many years longing to come here!    So many thoughts about this moment.    And here I was.   ....walking where Jesus walked.
 

The Via Dolorosa

I wanted to get an impression of what Jesus  might have been feeling when He was here. Nothing came to the surface. But as I looked up  to a tower in the distance, I felt a surge of intense victory!


He would have seen this same view, and would have known He was almost finished with His  horrendous task.    (The Via Dolorosa was a very long path!) And He still had love in His heart for those who were going to kill Him.   He would save the good and the bad, the kind-hearted and the hateful.   It was Victory and Love!
 

While I was on this path, I got swept up into a group of Russian tourists.   I stopped at all the Stations of the Cross with them feeling all their passion even though I didn't understand a word.


When they all headed into a souvenir shop, I lost my familiar guide with the black and white zebra shirt.   It was getting cold and dark.   I should figure out where I was and how to get home again. 

 

At that point, I made my way out of the Old City trying to find a landmark before the sun went down.

The Square outside of Jaffa Gate.

Amazingly, the alleyway I was on in the Arab Quarter shot me out  by the Jaffa Gate into the Christian Quarter--the Gate I had tried to come in that morning.  


It was sunset now.  The sun was playing with different shades of orange and pink on the white stones of the Citadel of David, making it a tantalizing backdrop for a photograph of the Jerusalem sky.


 It was getting chilly and I really needed a place to sit down.   Just the day before, I had bemoaned to the Lord how I only had enough money for a bus ticket to/from the Old City--which would be great!   But...not even some extra for a cup of coffee.    Later one night, there!  shining on the dark pavement was a 10-shekel coin!   I never find money!!    It was such a sweet answer to my little prayer.

He Cares!    Now my first day in the Old City could be punctuated by a cup of warm coffee in a café if I needed a place to take a break and warm up.   Winter in central Israel is cold, y'all!

 Just inside the Jaffa Gate was this 'Samara Bar 'café with a 10 shekel coffee on the menu.  Perfect.   It was a month past Christmas, but Christmas music floated up from the loudspeakers anyway.   It was a playlist of Pavarotti, Christmas carols sung by cartoon characters, the Chant Album and John Denver.   I  wouldn't have imagined that combo in a million years.   Laying down my burdens, I went back in time.   

 

It's Christmas all year long here at The Samara Bar!

This was my first day into the Old City and what a memorable day it was.  I entered through The Lion's Gate and would leave through the Jaffa (Beautiful) Gate.    I walked on the Via Dolorosa, was treated to a cup of coffee by God and ended my day with a serenade from Alvin and the Chipmunks.   Only in Jerusalem, folks.   

 

 

Friar Tuck would totally have been at ease here if this was Sherwood Forest. 



Is this the coolest picture for a nation's tourism industry, or what?

Ehad(1) Schteim(2) Shalosh(3)...SALSA!!!

      I just had the greatest opportunity last week.  We learned how to SALSA! 


I went to visit a friend and found out that her friends were going to a salsa class at a Jewish community center that night.

 I went with fear and trepidation thinking it would be a cave-bar experience and I would have to shower for weeks to get all the slime off from the evening.   I was not prepared for how up-standing and gracious everyone was.    They were really there to learn how to dance (even conservative practicing Jews) and then practice what they learned in a 'safe' environment.

A quick summary: 

1)  Dance lessons with teachers Joanna and Haim.

2)  Two hours of fast-paced, following-the-lead-of-whoever-asks-you-to-dance dancing, to a backdrop of earthy Latino music.

3)  Finding out you know how to dance salsa from all the swing dancing you did at home in Portland, OR.

4)  Realize that every single person who asks you where you are from and why you are here--and maybe what your name is, is getting to know you but is profiling you at the same time.  (Almost everyone has served in the Israeli army so I bet it's habit as well as common courtesy when asking.)

5)  Excited to find that what you thought would be a slimy evening is one the cleanest and above-board dancing experiences you have ever had.  

Such a great night because:

You are in Jerusalem, you're learning to dance, while staying out really late at night (for once), while getting to mingle with some real Israelis AND are learning some Hebrew.   I now know some Ophir's, Dawid's, Itai's, Barak's and Schlomo's.   

Bus Drivers: The Real Heroes of Israel + A Sample Bus Ride

Who are the real heroes of Israel, during this peace-time lull?  Bus Drivers.   Careening around corners, in buses big enough for circus elephants,  maneuvering windy roads at highway speeds, they are a wonder.   

Solemn and serene, they don't even break a sweat when handing you change while they're driving at 20 mph: awe-inspiring.   They get my vote for the day and my commendation for bravery.  


Considering things people have done to buses here in the region, they drive them without fear.  They put their own lives in danger every day as they take us, unassuming passengers, from one stop to another.

I love them and they are worthy of any good PR they get.     I'll try to include a clip of a bus ride here to show you what I mean--as well as a picture of my favorite driver.  



This is near Abu Ghosh going in the direction of Jerusalem!
Late in month of March.

He's a hit with all the kids!     The only one I hear them ALL saying good-bye to as they leave.    (He also recognized me and another moshavite one night, pulled the bus over and picked us up so we wouldn't have to walk the last 20 meters to Yad Hashmona in the dark.) 

Now if I could just remember his name...Moshe...Avram? 

Samuel Harfst - Das Privileg zu Sein (The Privilege to Be)

A new favorite song (and a theme song among the volunteers.)  "God is still doing miracles, hour after hour, day after day..."   If you have time, check out his other songs.  They are also remarkable!

A Favorite Scene

Something Light

     with some Israeli culture mixed in:

   Her Morning Elegance  ~ Oren Lavie

On a Personal Note

I wanted to let you know how I was doing.  I wrote this letter to a friend and thought it would paint the best picture of what I've been up to and how I've been feeling lately.   (My friend didn't mind...)

    
 ...Toughest winter in recent history! It was like struggle, struggle, struggle until the wind blows through and the memory of those achy breaky times gone. I was just thinking about this last night. Whether I was here or in Portland, I think it would have been a hard season.  I've heard that it was a hard winter for so many around us.   Just recently, I felt impressed by the Big Guy that for me and all of the volunteers here, '...the season of singing has come.'   I felt good things would start in February.    Many things have.  There have been breakthroughs, people have been given opportunities, prayers have been answered and the sun has started warming us all up.

Warm days make everything so much better.  I kind of thought Israel would be balmy.  I was unprepared for the onslaught of so many cold, dark days.   It was so cold you would literally wear 5-7 layers of clothing to keep insulated.   I am thankful for the rain coming down on this dry land, but it was difficult keeping your paper products dry and the floors unmuddied, as you left newly-cleaned rooms.

I love storms.  It was great sitting in the dining room as the wind blew up from the coast and pounded rain against the strong windows keeping us cozy inside. 

Back to the present.   We have a volunteer trip planned, we just had a B study with one of the premier tour guides of the region and were invited to our volunteer coordinator's home for lasagna the other night.   We have a list going around where we can write down all the things that need fixing in our rooms.  (For the boys' places: holes in floors, windows missing, etc. ... and for the girls, using a shared room key between 3 people.)   I would say that things are looking up.
   

By the way,  tour guides are the national heros of Israel. when you want to impress someone, you tell them how many prime ministers your tour guide has led around.   They actually have to apply for a license to be a guide and it takes 2 years to study and test for it.   There is someone staying with the volunteers right now who is going for it and said that it is not easy.   He even has a supervisor.)   

The uprising in Egypt... As usual, the more tumult I am around on the outside, the calmer I am on the inside. Revolution.   I believe revolution can be the climax for great change.  (We have had own little revo here.   We prayed, we acted and we were heard.)   We are diligently watching what will happen in Egypt.    There is talk that this might create a domino effect and other countries (Tunisia, Yemen, etc. ..) that are ready for change will rise up and create some disturbance so their voice can be heard.    These are my thoughts from the limited amount of news I've been able to take in between work and sleep and laundry.

 I just had the chance to take a few new vols (volunteers) to Jerusalem. It was so nice being the veteran--pointing out all the sights and giving out advice that people have given to me.   I am now one of three that have been here the longest--and I've only been here two months!    I know where the ATM's are, where to catch the bus to go home and my favorite--the bakery with the 2 shekel chocolate croissant and 6 shekel hot chocolate.   (Almost all the prices in Jerusalem are 1.5-3 times higher than in the States--especially now that the value of the dollar has dropped.  

Most average coffees are 15 shekels ($4.50), meals are 35 shekels ($10) and clothing (sweatshirts, pants) is 70-100 shekels ($25-35).   Maybe those prices aren't too bad, but a day into Jerusalem adds up quickly.   With your bus fare, a quick snack and maybe a postcard or toothpaste, it's bare minimum, 50 shekels and you've spent 1/5 of your monthly allowance.    I have a friend in the city who said many of her friends have almost become vegetarians because meat has become so expensive to buy.  

Back to my vol. friend... I also told them the story of Abu Ghosh.  (It's famous for its hummus also.)  It's our closest neighboring city and an Arab one at that.   It's different though.   They were on the same side as the Jews when fighting for their independence.   More recently, when there was fighting between the Arabs and the Jews and the Jews were throwing rocks at their neighbors, the Arabs of Abu Ghosh asked someone what they should do.   'We like our neighbors, we don't want to fight with them.'    The advice:   Bring flowers over for Friday Shabbat.    They did so and all was well in Abu Ghosh after that.   

Now that things are back in balance I can relax, enjoy my time here and plan the next step. I'm going to get some resumes out to international schools in the area for next year, I think. I always wonder what I should really be doing, but then the next step becomes obvious.   

I have to say, I never thought housekeeping would be such an intense job.   40 hours a week dedicated to hotel upkeep really takes time.   I thought I would have more time and energy for traveling and going out to see things after work, but it has taken more out of me than I thought.   The sun goes down at around 5:30 pm which doesn't leave much time for sight-seeing after a 7:30-4:00 day.  

This is not to discourage anyone, just to remark that doing a tour of Israel might be a good idea before volunteering for a few months here.   Touring works at the end though too and there is enough time to see some things on days off and on your 2 extra days off each month.    It is great to be this close to Jerusalem and have so many bus options.    Israel is a small country.  A well-planned day can take you to many historical sights.     (A side note:  I now have friends who live in the city and it has been my joy to be able to spend the night at their homes and do things with them the next day.) 

Learning Hebrew is coming.   With this 'season of singing' has come some new volunteers that are bent on learning the language.   We practice whatever we can and try to keep each other up-to-date on the latest words we've all learned.

 The most recent is,
'kilu' - 'like' or 'as if'
'menyan' - 'interesting'
and my friend in the city just taught me,
'ein matzav' - 'no way!'
and I love saying:
'metzuyan' - 'perfect!' 

I just found a great Hebrew for Travelers book (20 shekels = $6) in the Old City.   What a find.  I've been needing something like this since I got here.    Now I just need to find some Jewish people to talk to. 

(I joke about not knowing any Jewish people while I'm here in Israel because Yad Hashmona is like a little island.    We have so many international volunteers here that I speak more Spanish than anything--besides English.   It is a retreat from the seriousness of Jerusalem and the 'carnival' of Tel Aviv. 

It's really important then, for someone who wants to get the Israeli experience to get out as much as possible.  If one can't get out, getting to know members of the moshav is such a treat.   They are the veterans here and have such spirit.   They have built this place from the ground up and have invested their lives and family's lives into it.  They have have been 'holding the fort' so to speak for many years.    They have hosted believing groups and house discipleship ministries and now B translator students.  It may take a little effort to bridge the gap--we don't eat with members like I thought we would--but seeing them at the fellowship or in transit is a great time to get to know them--some real Sabras.

Interesting...visa situation is not so good. I actually don't have a visa--it has expired.   The administration promised that it was their job to take care of visas and not to worry. But it might be that I have to leave the country (with a letter explaining that I've been volunteering) and then come back in on another tourist visa. This would mean a trip to Cyprus--which would be a welcome vacation if necessary.   I have gotten advice encouraging the opposite.  Stay put until they take care of it.

Volunteers come and go like the clouds here. Shifting and changing: rooms, work assignments, trials, triumphs...  One of our vol. leaders here was really concerned due to a visa situation.   They want to move to this country but their visa situation might make things difficult when they apply to 'make aliyah'. (They are Jewish so they could settle in Israel.) It will be okay.   It just has to be in the Big Guy's hands.  

So we are all a little affected when the seasoned ones go through stuff.  When things turn around though and prayers are answered, it is a team victory.    We eat, sleep, work and pray together.   You feel very bonded to your 'people'.

I might have met the author of my favorite Israeli blog in Tel Aviv this past week. It's called, 'What War Zone?'    I asked this guy if he was 'English'  (what I meant to say was 'English-speaking!') so he said, 'No', but clearly with a New York accent.   I'm pretty sure it was him.   His blog really made an impression on me when I was preparing to come here and trying to pick up some Israeli pop culture.  Not everything he writes about is kosher, so I can't recommend it unreservedly, but it was like having a friend in the Middle East before I got here.

It is a small world here. You'll get on a city bus and be like, "Didn't I just see you last week, walking down the street with your gun in uniform?"   Or there's the old lady selling cell phones that then you see in the grocery store buying chalah bread for Shabbat. It's weird. Not the best examples. I'll think of some better ones.   It's such a small country, alot of people do double duty here. You'll run into someone who runs a youth hostel that was just the security director for the army and recently got into the stock market--all before age 40. :]

They're watching 'Get Smart' in the other room. It's so fun to hear the lines through the walls and smile at everyone's reactions. I am tempted to join them.   Friday is becoming our Shabbat celebration and movie night.  It's after dinner and is sometimes followed up by some amazing worship and prayer. Very real. Very special. Wait. A Spider. I need to kill it.

I better go. Baruch ata--or 'at'--if you are a guy. (Bless you!)

Off to the Galilee

After much anticipation, the volunteers at Yad Hashmona got a volunteer trip to the Galilee region.  We also got within eyeshot of the Syrian and Lebanese borders, went to two natural reserve parks and ended the day with some make-your-own falafels in a Druze village on the Golan Heights.   Some highlights were a snow-covered Mount Hermon as a backdrop and the lights of Tiberias reflected in the Sea of Galilee after dark.    Below are some of the pics....

A walk to the ancient ruins of the king's town Tel Hazor.

Ancient trees to go with an ancient town

The Yad HaShmona International Volunteer Gang



Into an ancient water collection system

Beautiful Shadows



Water from ancient pathways flow from Dan in the north to the Jordan River.



Finding seats on steps leading up to a golden ox. 

(Golden ox not pictured.)

The beginning of the downfall of the Judean kingdom. 

([Child] sacrifices to Baal started up here after Solomon's reign.)




A view from the Golan Heights

 



It was a beautiful day.   We had a top-notch tour guide who took the time to inspire as well as instruct us on the ins and outs of Israeli history.

The modern and the ancient meet at these church ruins behind me.